The most known symbol of the South Pole is perhaps the Ceremonial Pole: a chrome sphere on top of a red and white "barber's pole," which was surrounded by a semicircle of the national flags of the original signers of Antarctica Treaty.

Image: The Ceremonial Pole surrounded by a semicircle of national flags.

About 100 meters from it was the Geographic South Pole, as of recent years. This was the 1994 geographic South Pole pole mark. Since the ice shelf moves under gravity at the speed of about 10 meters a year, the position of the geographic pole on the ice moves in the opposite direction. So every year there is a ceremony in which some people hold a GPS (Global Position System) receiver and determine where the new pole is, then nail down a pole mark. From the picture, you can see a series of posts behind the board, leading in the direction of the ice drift. Images of 1994 Geographic South Pole and pole marks of previous years in the back, and 1994 pole mark.

Actually, the real geographic South Pole is changing at a rate of several tens of meters all the time, due to mass distribution in the earth, the tide, and maybe the positions of the moon and the sun, as I was told. And what's more, people stationed at the South Pole, and some visitors, would completely extract the Pole mark to take a picture. It's not impossible that some people would intentionally misplace the mark a little bit.

Between the Geographic South Pole and the Ceremonial Pole was a post with a lot of names of places on it. At the opposite side, about 300 meters away, is the symbolic geodesic dome of the Amundsen-Scott South Pole Station.

Image: Name post.

The dome was built in 1975, and had almost been buried by drifting snow. The entrance to the dome was basically under the ground. If you have just arrived at the Pole, and are having altitude sickness because of the 680 millibar air, you would have problems just walking up the slope.

In front of the dome, leading to the left and right, were two long archways that were being used for fuel storage and generator room, clinic, gym, and garage.

Image: Symbolic geodesic dome of the Amundsen-Scott South Pole Station.

In the 55-meter diameter dome, there are several buildings: a dining room where most major activities take place, a communication center, computer terminal rooms, a library, a small shop, a big refrigeration room that needs no power to run, and most important for people who station at the Pole for the whole year: the berth. The dome was a good idea to eliminate the need for clearing the drifting snow that tends to bury buildings in a matter of years, and perhaps more importantly, shielding the connections to essential buildings from the impact of severe weather, especially when the temperature drops to under -100F in winter.

Image: Inside the dome.

From the picture one can see there were a lot of boxes on the snow, labeled "HEAVY METAL," "FOOD WASTE," "CONSTRUCTION DEBRIS," "CARDBOARD," etc. They were the result of a waste management program, which everybody was required to know about upon arrival in Antarctica. In accordance with the Antarctic Treaty, whatever has been carried into Antarctica should be carried out. Human impact on the environment should be kept to a minimum. All garbage, from dead vehicles to coffee grounds, would be categorized and packed separately. Almost all waste would be shipped back to the US, and later either be recycled or landfilled. Despite some inconvenience brought by such a policy, I regarded people's seriousness on this issue as taking responsibility for this last unspoiled continent on earth.

However , even there were such policies, whenever I saw crates and packing boxes lying here and there, and vans, planes, snowmobiles, and bulldozers running around, spouting smoke and noise, I felt the South Pole was still marred by mundane human activities.

Image: The impact of human activities.

Everyday when I walked from the dome to work, snow gave loud hollow sound underneath my feet. It felt so quiet. I could hear people talking from far away, as well as the half ring of flags at the Ceremonial Pole fluttering in the wind. Vast flat horizon simmered under the sun, which invariably circled at the same altitude counter clockwise 24 hours a day.

The South Pole should be treated just like the national parks in the U.S. It is unique, both because of its geographic position, and its historical and cultural significance. It was the holy grail of many brave pioneers who had endured harsh conditions and risked their lives in order to prove the strength of the human race and increase our knowledge of the Nature.

The main reason that prompted the US to construct and support the station right at the Pole had more to do with territorial considerations than with necessities of scientific research.

Scientific research at the South Pole was actively carried out in the field of atmospheric research, seismology, meteorology, astronomy, physics, etc. In summer, at peak times, there were about 140 people at the Pole. Most people came to stay for several weeks and then left.

My project, AST/RO, was located across the runway, about a half mile away from the dome. There were several buildings in the same area, which was called the "Dark Sector." All research works going on here were astrophysics related, and under the administration of CARA (Center of Astrophysical Research in Antarctica). The AST/RO group included Robert Wilson, who is a Nobel Prize laureate because of his contribution in the discovery of cosmic background radiation. Since most astronomical observations need low light or low radio interference from the dome, they were built here in the dark.

All new buildings, including buildings of the new South Pole Station, will be elevated so that drifting snow can go by underneath, without piling up and burying the building.

Image: Elevated new buildings.

Usually there were not a lot of other things one could do except work, eat, and sleep. One could borrow books and video tapes, or play pool games. Life there was amazingly simple. Since the NSF footed the bill for food and living costs, the concept of money would only be recalled once in a while from a corner of memory, when you needed to buy soap, liquor, or a gift. I really enjoyed being able to forget all the chores and trivia that I have to deal with in my normal life in Boston.

The South Pole Station was more localized and smaller than McMurdo, so there was a more intimate relationship between people. You could soon know everyone quickly, even if you were not really a socializer. People working at the Pole as NSF employees seemed to be more of the adventurer type. There were so many people who like mountaineering and other outdoor activities, and so many people have their pilot's license.

There had been a lot of events going on during my stay.